The penetration of active ingredients in cosmetics through the skin barrier is a hot topic in the cosmetics industry. Microneedle technology creates microchannels on the skin surface using tiny needles, which can facilitate the penetration of active ingredients from cosmetics into the deeper layers of the skin, bringing innovation to traditional skincare methods. This article reviews the pathways of transdermal absorption and methods to enhance transdermal absorption, as well as the research progress of microneedle technology in transdermal absorption of cosmetics. The development prospects and challenges of microneedle technology in the cosmetics industry are discussed so as to provide references for future research and development.

Objective: To compare the extraction process of highland barley seeds to maximize their antioxidant activities. Methods: Three methods, namely, biofermentation, aqueous extraction and alcohol extraction, were used to comparatively analyze the extraction efficiency of β-glucan and total phenols from barley seed grain extract. The antioxidant capacity of the three barley seed extracts was detected by ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), 2,2'-binamine-di-3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging assay. Meanwhile, the identification of metabolite from the extracts was performed using high performance liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Results: The alcoholic extraction method showed optimal extraction, yielding 2.03 µg/mL β-glucan and 8.88 µg/mL gallic acid equivalent of total phenols, and the strongest antioxidant activity in all the three antioxidant activity assays, FRAP, ABTS, and DPPH. Twenty-five compounds were screened out by metabolite analysis, 23 of which possessed antioxidant properties. Conclusion: This study reveals the metabolic composition of highland barley seed extract and its antioxidant activity, which provides a scientific basis for an in-depth understanding of the nutritional properties of barley and its potential health benefits, as well as theoretical support for the application of barley in the development of pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals.

Objective: To observe the characteristics of basement membrane barrier damage caused by UVB irradiation in cell models and isolated skin tissues. Methods: HaCaT cells were irradiated with 40 mJ/cm² UVB, and the expression characteristics of basement membrane barrier-related genes were analyzed by RNA-seq data. In addition, transmission electron microscopy and immunofluorescence staining were used to observe the changes of basement membrane structure and key barrier protein content in three groups of isolated skin tissues after continuous irradiation with 50 mJ/cm² UVB for 3 days. Results: Eighteen genes related to basement membrane were found, of which the expression of 17 genes were down-regulated. The expression levels of COL4A4, COL4A5, COL4A6, ITGB1, ITGA3, ITGA4, ITGA6 and LAMA5 was down-regulated by more than 1.5 times (P<0.05), while the expression level of HPSE was up-regulated by 2.4 times (P<0.000 1). In the in vitro skin tissue experiment, the transparent layer and dense layer of the basement membrane were observed to be broken after UVB irradiation, the hemidesmosomes were destroyed and their integrity and continuity were damaged, and the integrin protein content was decreased (P<0.05). Conclusion: UVB irradiation can down-regulate the expression of genes related to the structure of the basement membrane barrier, up-regulate the expression of heparanase gene, cause the disorder of the basement membrane structure and the degradation of the key barrier protein of the basement membrane, and damage the basement membrane.

In recent years, with the continuous advancement of technology and the increasing focus on health and beauty, the cosmetics industry has been facing new challenges and opportunities. One of them is how to better penetrate the effective components of cosmetics into the skin to maximize their effectiveness. Deuterium-depleted water may be an effective transdermal agent and has now attracted widespread attention. This study examines the solubility, permeability of deuterium-depleted water, and its potential application as a new transdermal strategy in cosmetics.

Objective: To explore the effects of lyophilized essence of compound traditional Chinese medicine extracts on scalp tissue aging. Methods: Normal human scalp tissues cultured in vitro were selected as the experimental subjects, which were divided into a control group and an extracts essence treatment group. The tissues were cultured in William's complete medium, and the effects of the extracts essence on the key proteins associated with scalp aging were evaluated by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay and immunofluorescence detection. Results: In scalp tissues cultured in vitro, the extracts essence could significantly reduce the expression level of interleukin 6 to below 1% of the baseline at the concentrations of x/5, x/3, and x/2. In addition, the extracts essence could decrease the expression levels of 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) by 25%, versican by 48% and myelin protein zero-like 3 (MPZL3) by 19% at a concentration of x/10 (all P<0.01), and the expression of 8-OHdG by 24%, versican by 24% and MPZL3 by 33% at a concentration of x/5 (all P<0.01), respectively. Conclusion: The lyophilized essence of compound Chinese medicine extracts has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-aging effects on human scalp tissues cultured in vitro and a value of further clinical research.

Objective: To evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of Zigui lip balm both in vitro and in vivo. Methods: The model of inflammation was established using lipopolysaccharide-induced RAW 264.7 cells to detect the impact of Zigui alcohol extract on nitric oxide production. The model of atopic dermatitis-like mice induced by capsaicin was established to study the effects of Zigui lip balm on ear skin thickness, severity of ear skin inflammation, histopathology, and safety. Results: Zigui alcohol extract at 25-200 μg/mL could significantly promote the growth of RAW 264.7 cells and reduce nitric oxide levels. Meanwhile, Zigui lip balm could also significantly reduce ear thickness, eczema area and severity index (EASI) scores, inflammatory cell infiltration and decrease epidermal thickening and improve inflammation of the atopic dermatitis-like mice ear skin and in addition, Zigui lip balm had no effect on the liver, spleen, and kidneys of mice with capsaicin-induced atopic dermatitis. Conclusion: Zigui lip balm exhibits significant anti-inflammatory effects and is safe for use.

Objective: To explore the effects of Qudou formulae (QF) extract on the epidermal barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, sebum control and antibacterial function. Methods: The epidermal barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, sebum control and antibacterial effects of QF extract were evaluated by detecting its effects on sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS)-induced proliferation of HaCaT cell damage model, lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced nitric oxide (NO) production in RAW 264.7 cells, proliferation of SZ95 cells and neutral lipid synthesis, and inhibition of Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). Results: QF extract could improve the survival rate of SDS-induced HaCaT cells, inhibit the secretion of NO from LPS-treated RAW 264.7 cells, promote the growth of SZ95 cells and inhibit its neutral lipid synthesis, and had the inhibitory activity against S. aureus and P. acnes. Conclusion: QF extract has significant epidermal barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, oil control and antibacterial effects, and is expected to become a new raw material for Chinese medicine acne skin care products.

Objective: To comprehensively evaluate the soothing effects of a novel efficacy complex (referred to as “Penta-Ring essence”) on the skin of individuals with oily sensitivity. Methods: An in vivo experimental approach with 34 healthy female subjects aged 18-60 years with oily skin from the Shanghai area was employed. The soothing effect of a long-term use of Penta-Ring essence on oily and sensitive skin was evaluated by a method of autologous before-and-after control. Results: A number of physiological indicators of the skin were significantly improved after the Penta-Ring essence was continuously used for 4 weeks, including 13.29% increase in the water content of the stratum corneum, 11.72% decrease transepidermal water loss, 1.91% decrease in skin temperature, 21.21% decrease in skin sebum, 7.70% decrease in skin E value, 4.54% decrease in M value, 5.84% decrease in skin chroma a^* value, 5.68% increase in skin chroma L^* value and 58.16% decrease in the score after 2.5 min lactate irritation (all P<0.01). Conclusion: For oily and sensitive skin, the Penta-Ring essence can effectively increase skin hydration, reduce oil secretion and pigmentation, relieve inflammation, brighten skin tone with minimal irritation and significantly improve skin barrier function, which demonstrate its efficacy in skin soothing and repair.

Objective: To establish new indicators representing skin aging phenotypes using non-invasive measurement techniques to extract facial skin physicochemical parameters in a Chinese population. Methods: A total of 100 healthy subjects with different age were recruited and skin parameters such as moisture content and so on were measured by non-invasive skin testing instruments. Subsequently, principal component analysis (PCA) and generalized linear model (GLM) analyses were performed. Results: Correlation analysis showed that collagen density was significantly negatively correlated with age (r=−0.31, P<0.01). Parameters such as the elasticity index R5 at the corner of the eyes (r=−0.612, P<0.000 1) significantly decreased with the increase of age. The skin aging index (SAI) established by the GLM showed a more significant relationship with age (r=0.699, P<0.000 1). Conclusion: Facial skin aging is primarily characterized by collagen loss, reduced elasticity, and changes in skin pigmentation. SAI established using non-invasive measurement parameters and GLM can be used to characterize the complex aging of facial skin.

Objective: To detect the contact allergens in female patients with rosacea. Methods: The cosmetic patch test were performed in patients with rosacea visited our clinic from January 2018 to December 2021. Results: Among the 93 patients enrolled, 68 (73.12%) cases presented a positive reaction, and the top four categories of cosmetic allergens were metal-salts (41 cases), surfactants (37 cases), preservatives (30 cases) and aromatics (24 cases). The top 9 specific allergen ingredients with the highest positivity rate were nickel chloride (36 cases), cobalt chloride (23 cases), sodium dodecyl sulfate (16 cases), amylcinnamyl alcohol (14 cases), alkyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether (12 cases), nickel sulfate (12 cases), thiomersalate (11 cases), sodium sulfate (11 cases), and oakmoss extract (10 cases). Conclusion: Cosmetic contact allergens may be associated with the onset and recurrence of rosacea, with metal salts, surfactants, preservatives, and aromatics being the most common types of cosmetic allergens.